High on Lakes

High on Lakes (contd..)

The next day once again brings along bad news. We had decided to get to our second lake, Tso Morriri via Chushul and Loma. But the Section House Officer of Chushul informs us that we cannot travel via that route since Loma is too close to the Sino-Indian border. He suggests we head back towards Karu and take a detour via Upshi. With no way out, we head back. As we climb Chang La again it starts snowing heavily. So much so that the Montero is soon covered in snow and the road is slippery. However it is here that the Apollo Hawkz on the Montero show their mettle as they provide the much needed traction.

On the other side safely,  we carry on towards Chumathang on the banks of the mighty and green Indus. After 142km, we reach a Y-junction. As we had been told, the road ahead disappears giving way to a barren rocky flat land.

As we momentarily hit 100kmph, the Montero's suspension soaks every bump, rut, pothole and what have you, like it's a piece of cake. As the speedo hits 100kmh, we hit a immense hump and the huge hulk of the Montero leaves ground momentarily! As the traction control light comes on, we try everything possible to ensure  we don't crash. Thankfully we land safely on terra firma. With our confidence in the Montero growing, we decide to plough on at the same speed hoping the numerous computers on board the vehicle and the fantastic traction offered by the Apollo tyres will see us through. 

Far away, we spot a bit of blue! Is it Tso Morriri? Some nomads' tents being the only place where we can confirm whether it is indeed the lake we are looking for, we head towards them. Turns out the lake ahead is not Tso Moriri but another one called Kyagar Tso. This was certainly a bonus for we had only bargained on visiting three lakes and this was not one of them.

After reconfirming that we are on the right road, we head off towards Tso Moriri. A few kilomtres ahead the flat lands disappear. A small lane is what we are on with a drop on one side and mountains on the other. True to the words of the nomads, we spot a lone metal bridge. We cross it and spot the massive Tso Morriri! It's a sight to behold as the clear blue skies reflect off the waters of the lake offering a spectacular panorama! 

In our enthusiasm we plough on ahead only to realise that there are no signs of life. We are all a little confused, for we have definite information that there were camps and places to stay and a huge ITBP camp at Tso Moriri. It is only now that we spot the camp, but it's on the other side of the lake!

We make our way back to the bridge and turn off into what looks like no road at all. Snaking through we reach the ITBP tent and show our permits. Miles away we spot the road we were on and thank our stars that we have had the good sense to stop and look for the little cluster of buildings that passes for the village that is Korzok. 

Unlike at Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri offers three choices of accommodation – a guest house, a tourist centre and a camp overlooking the lake. However we decide to pitch our tent that night! With sleeping bags laid, and tent pitched, we head into the village for food. The night is a cold one and it starts snowing! In our little tent we feel one with nature in a way that touches our soul.

We wake up to the beautiful rays of the morning sun bouncing off the waters of the lake. But as we take in the drama of the sight in front of us, we realise it has been a while since we have had any contact with folks back home! 

Not knowing where else we could turn for help in a land where connectivity is as rare as a blue moon in the sky, we went to the ITBP camp and asked if they could point us to a phone booth or something. 

Again, to our surprise, they rose to the occasion in a way we hadn't imagined. Instead of giving us directions to a phone booth, they showed us into their communication centre from where we could use their satellite phone to call home. It's at times like these that one realises that though we live in a world where calls on mobile phones, text messages, BBM-ing are the norm, there are still places where connectivity with the outside world commands a high premium.

To get to our next destination – Tso Kar, we head back the same way for around 43 kilometres and reach a small village called Tsumdo. As we approached the village it started snowing again. Yes you read it right! Snowfall in the month of June when the plains are burning. In a hurry to record the awesome scene with our cameras we jump out of the cosiness of the Montero's heated seats. The cold is shocking and numbing. The snowfall is so heavy that in the brief few moments of our stopover, we and the car, is  covered with a thin white layer. Hurriedly we jump back inside. We turn on the heater and very soon, are back to feeling cosy in a cabin that seems as warm as toast at 22 degrees! 

We trundle through the snow and after a few more moments are blessed with bright sunshine. It's  a crazy world here. Ahead lies a stretch good enough to tear away tyres to shreds and it is on this path that we encounter an oncoming truck. It suddenly dawns on us that this is the only vehicle we have seen on this desolate road since morning. We ask the driver for directions to Tso Kar and he tells us to carry on on the same road. 

En route we tackle one of the worst mountain climbs we have faced so far with gradients beyond belief. In addition, every turn was strewn with rocks and gravel so that tyres were fighting for grip. Suddenly it all ends and from the top of the mountain we spot Tso Kar, and beyond it pristine tarmac! 

Even from a distance we can make out that Tso Kar is partially frozen, which isn't something we had expected. Parked by the lakeside, we realise that while Pangong Tso still had a road, Tso Morriri and Tso Kar are relatively virgin territories.  And that we have charted a new road which even Google Maps says does not exist. And most of it through snow, gravel and slush!